Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles is the official publication of The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. It was launched in 1977. Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles aims at providing up-to-date research contents and news on cutting-edge technologies, as well as facilitating the interaction between academia worldwide and related industries, thereby enhancing the professional expertise of its members and contributing to the advancement of apparel.
• Frequency : issued six times a year
• ISSN : 1225-1151 (Print)/2234-0793 (Online)
• Year of Launching : 1977
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Are Business Cycles in the Fashion Industry Affected by the News? -An ARIMAX Time Series Correlation Analysis between the KOSPI Index for Textile & Wearing Apparel and Media Agendas- 패션산업의 경기변동은 뉴스의 영향을 받는가? -섬유의복 KOSPI와 미디어 의제의 ARIMAX 시계열 상관관계 분석-
Are Business Cycles in the Fashion Industry Affected by the News? -An ARIMAX Time Series Correlation Analysis between the KOSPI Index for Textile & Wearing Apparel and Media Agendas- 패션산업의 경기변동은 뉴스의 영향을 받는가? -섬유의복 KOSPI와 미디어 의제의 ARIMAX 시계열 상관관계 분석-
The growth of digital news media and the stock price index has resulted in economic fluctuations in the fashion industry. This study examines the impact of fashion industry news and macroeconomic changes on the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI over the past five years. An auto-regressive integrated moving average exogenous time series model was conducted using the fashion industry stock market index, the news topic index, and macro-economic indicators. The results indicated the topics of “Cosmetic business expansion” and “Digital innovation” impacted the Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI after one week, and the topics of “Pop-up store,” “Entry into the Chinese fashion market,” and “Fashion week and trade show” affected it after two weeks. Moreover, the topics of “Cosmetic business expansion” and “Entry into the Chinese fashion market” were statistically significant in the macroeconomic environment. Regarding the effect relation of Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI, “Cosmetic business expansion,” “Entry into the Chinese fashion market,” and consumer price fluctuation showed negative effects, while the private consumption change rate, producer price fluctuation, and unemployment change rate had positive effects. This study analyzes the impact of media framing on fashion industry business cycles and provides practical insights into managing stock market risk for fashion companies.
Key Words
Framing effects, Fashion industry news, Textile & Wearing Apparel KOSPI, Auto-regressive integrated moving average exogenous, Fashion industry big data, 프레이밍 효과, 패션산업 뉴스, 섬유의복 KOSPI, ARIMAX 시계열, 패션산업 빅데이터
Perception and Trend Differences between Korea, China, and the US on Vegan Fashion -Using Big Data Analytics- 빅데이터를 이용한 비건 패션 쟁점의 분석 -한국, 중국, 미국을 중심으로-
Perception and Trend Differences between Korea, China, and the US on Vegan Fashion -Using Big Data Analytics- 빅데이터를 이용한 비건 패션 쟁점의 분석 -한국, 중국, 미국을 중심으로-
This study examines current trends and perceptions of veganism and vegan fashion in Korea, China, and the United States. Using big data tools Textom and Ucinet, we conducted cluster analysis between keywords. Further, frequency analysis using keyword extraction and CONCOR analysis obtained the following results. First, the nations’ perceptions of veganism and vegan fashion differ significantly. Korea and the United States generally share a similar understanding of vegan fashion. Second, the industrial structures, such as products and businesses, impacted how Korea perceived veganism. Third, owing to its ongoing sociopolitical tensions, the United States views veganism as an ethical consumption method that ties into activism. In contrast, China views veganism as a healthy diet rather than a lifestyle and associates it with Buddhist vegetarianism. This perception is because of their religious history and culinary culture. Fundamentally, this study is meaningful for using big data to extract keywords related to vegan fashion in Korea, China, and the United States. This study deepens our understanding of vegan fashion by comparing perceptions across nations.
Key Words
Big data, Text mining, Vegan fashion, Vegan trend, Cross-national analysis, 빅데이터, 텍스트 마이닝, 비건 패션, 비건 트렌드, 국가별 비교분석
The Meaning of Resell Activities Using the Online Second-hand Platform 온라인 중고 거래 플랫폼을 활용한 리셀의 의미
Reselling, an activity of purchasing high-scarcity products and selling them back at high prices, has gained popularity among those in their 20s and 30s in recent years. This study examines the resell activity process of the MZ generation using the online second-hand platform and its inherent meaning. Interviews with 15 participants in their 20s and 30s showed that respondents have four purchase stages: being influenced by social media, collecting and comparing information using various social media, purchasing efforts, and post-purchase behavior. The research derived three inherent meanings of resell activities: (1) means of self-presentation and differentiation, (2) confirmation of investment skills and aptitude to lead fashion trends, and (3) pleasure of consumption. Respondents indicated meeting self-satisfaction through public selfies on social media. In addition, they emphasized the empirical pleasure during the buying journey by collecting product information, comparing prices, and negotiating with buyers. Our findings confirm the spread of resell activities from minority groups to enthusiastic youth. This study is significant for focusing on fashion products that attract attention in the resell market and examining the respondents' consumption experiences from various perspectives.
Dimensions, Ease, Grading Rule, and Wear Sensation for Commercial D and C Levels of Personal Protective Clothing D와 C등급 전신 보호복의 치수, 여유분, 그레이딩 편차 및 착의 평가
박선희 Sunhee Park , 박소영 Soyoung Park , 권은순 Eunsun Kwon , 강준모 Junmo Kang , 이예진 Yejin Lee
Dimensions, Ease, Grading Rule, and Wear Sensation for Commercial D and C Levels of Personal Protective Clothing D와 C등급 전신 보호복의 치수, 여유분, 그레이딩 편차 및 착의 평가
박선희 Sunhee Park , 박소영 Soyoung Park , 권은순 Eunsun Kwon , 강준모 Junmo Kang , 이예진 Yejin Lee
This study examined personal protective clothing, specifically the D (M, L, XL) and C (L, XL, 2XL) levels with high sales rates. The goal was to collect essential data for developing Korean personal protective clothing. There were eight and twelve patterns for the D-level and C-level, respectively. While the pattern dimensions were similar, the chest and waist circumferences (relaxed) were larger in the C-level, and the waist (extended), hip, upper arm circumference, and total lengths were larger in the D-level. The D-level wear sensation worked well for average-sized Koreans in their twenties, but the C-level caused discomfort in multiple areas, such as the face, arms, armpits, hips, crotch, thighs, and knee during movement. Consequently, this region required pattern adjustments and resetting for improved comfort. The grading rules were 10 cm in the chest, waist, and hip circumference, regardless of the level, with slight differences in other parts depending on the levels. Thus, manufacturers should establish new grading rules to suit the Korean body shape.
This study analyzed the body shape of adult women aged 20 to 59 with a waist and hip circumference difference of 22.00 cm or more to characterize the lower body shape of women with slender waist. The researchers analyzed the data using SPSS 26.0. Among the lower body measurements of women with slender waists, the waist circumference was 70.79 cm and the hip circumference was 95.25 cm, with a difference of 24.56 cm between the waist and hip circumferences. We categorized the components of a slender waist body type into four factors: lower body horizontal, lower body vertical, lower calf horizontal, and hip and crotch length. We categorized women with slender waists into four body types: slender long crane legs, short thick lamb legs, short thin ladder legs, and thick long pole legs. In their twenties, many people have slender, long-legged lower body, but as they age, they are more likely to have thicker lower bodies and short, thin ankles. Body types with slender waist had larger proportions of abdominal and hip dimensions in the width, circumference, and thickness categories based on waist dimensions than those with average or thick waists.
Key Words
body type, characteristics, large hips, slender waist, 체형, 특징, 큰 엉덩이, 가는 허리
A Study on Perceptions of Virtual Influencers through YouTube Comments -Focusing on Positive and Negative Emotional Responses Toward Character Design- 유튜브 댓글을 통해 살펴본 버추얼 인플루언서에 대한 인식 연구 -캐릭터 디자인에 대한 긍부정 감성 반응을 중심으로-
A Study on Perceptions of Virtual Influencers through YouTube Comments -Focusing on Positive and Negative Emotional Responses Toward Character Design- 유튜브 댓글을 통해 살펴본 버추얼 인플루언서에 대한 인식 연구 -캐릭터 디자인에 대한 긍부정 감성 반응을 중심으로-
This study analyzed users' emotional responses to VI character design through YouTube comments. The researchers applied text-mining to analyze 116,375 comments, focusing on terms related to character design and characteristics of VI. Using the BERT model in sentiment analysis, we classified comments into extremely negative, negative, neutral, positive, or extremely positive sentiments. Next, we conducted a co-occurrence frequency analysis on comments with extremely negative and extremely positive responses to examine the semantic relationships between character design and emotional characteristic terms. We also performed a content analysis of comments about Miquela and Shudu to analyze the perception differences regarding the two character designs. The results indicate that form elements (e.g., voice, face, and skin) and behavioral elements (e.g., speaking, interviewing, and reacting) are vital in eliciting users' emotional responses. Notably, in the negative responses, users focused on the humanization aspect of voice and the authenticity aspect of behavior in speaking, interviewing, and reacting. Furthermore, we found differences in the character design elements and characteristics that users expect based on the VI's field of activity. As a result, this study suggests applications to character design to accommodate these variations.
Key Words
Virtual influencer, VI, Character design, YouTube comments, Text-mining, Sentiment analysis, 버추얼 인플루언서, 캐릭터 디자인, 유튜브 댓글, 텍스트마이닝, 감성분석
The Effects of Flow in a Metaverse-based Virtual Brand Space on Satisfaction and Purchase Intention of Virtual and Actual Fashion Products 메타버스 기반 브랜드 가상 공간 내 플로우가 만족과 가상 및 실제 패션 제품 구매의도에 미치는 영향
The Effects of Flow in a Metaverse-based Virtual Brand Space on Satisfaction and Purchase Intention of Virtual and Actual Fashion Products 메타버스 기반 브랜드 가상 공간 내 플로우가 만족과 가상 및 실제 패션 제품 구매의도에 미치는 영향
The essence of fashion brands’ marketing with metaverse-based virtual spaces is to capture more potential consumers and boost the sales of companies’ virtual and physical products. However, existing research has not fully addressed customer responses and behavioral outcomes regarding fashion virtual brand spaces. This study uses flow theory to address this gap and explores the factors that lead to the flow experience in virtual brand spaces. It also establishes the causal relationships between the flow experience, satisfaction with virtual spaces, the intention to purchase virtual products, and the intention to purchase actual products. We chose “Ralph Lauren World” of Ralph Lauren on Zepeto as the virtual brand space for this study and analyzed 239 valid data sets. We tested the hypotheses using structural equation modeling and bootstrapping for the mediation analyses. The findings indicate that the flow experience in virtual brand spaces positively and indirectly affects the purchase intention of virtual products via satisfaction with virtual brand spaces. In addition, virtual space satisfaction had an indirect, positive effect on actual product purchase intention through virtual product purchase intention. The research emphasizes that the purchase intention of virtual and actual products has a positive causal relationship.
Key Words
Virtual brand space, Virtual product, Flow, Satisfaction, Purchase intention, 브랜드 가상 공간, 가상 제품, 플로우, 만족, 구매의도
Development of Costumes for Children's Experience Using Imperial Attire of the Daehan Empire 대한제국 황실 복식을 활용한 어린이 체험용 복식 개발
김순영 Soon-young Kim , 김주리 Ju Ri Kim , 장윤정 Yun-jeong Jang
This study selects imperial clothing items for experiential learning for children aged 5 to 7, presents the pattern design process for each, and proposes a production process. We chose costume items with evident characteristics and specific uses, ensuring they did not overlap. The selection considered the need for representative imperial clothing and the diversity of children's experiences. Ultimately, we produced four costumes : emperor, empress, prince, and princess. In terms of shape, color, material, and pattern, by referring to relics and photographic materials, we developed the costume for experience to emphasize the traditional beauty of the imperial costume of the Korean Empire. Moreover, we enhanced the convenience and efficiency of the clothing for children by developing sizes and details that considered various physique conditions.
Key Words
Experiential learning for children, Imperial attire, the Daehan Empire, 어린이 체험 학습, 황실 복식, 대한제국
Examining Portraits in Digital Fashion Art Non-Fungible Tokens (NFTs) through Baudrillard's Simulation
Web 3.0 enables people and machines to connect, evolve, share, and use knowledge on an unprecedented scale and in new ways, drastically improving our Internet experience. The metaverse is a collective, virtual shared space supporting all digital activities. Prompted by the rapid growth of digital art and digital fashion, this theoretical analysis explores using Jean Baudrillard's simulation concept to create unique digital art non-fungible tokens (NFTs), allowing them to express and communicate ideas like real-world art. Specifically, this study analyzes 120 digital fashion portraits of humans and animals and classifies them under three types of simulacra covering four stages of Baudrillard's simulation process. The result shows that NFT fashion artworks reflect the core features of a digital reality by connecting and transcending the boundaries of cultures, genders, and nationalities. However, in the final simulation stage (the fourth step), the simulacrum can only coexist in the virtual world as a hyperreal object (the Type Ⅲ of simulacrum): an object more real than reality.
Key Words
Non-fungible token, NFT, Jean Baudrillard, Simulation perspective, Simulacrum, Digital fashion art
Exploring Subcultural Capital in Sneakerhead Culture -A Netnographic Investigation- 스니커헤드 하위문화에 대한 네트노그라피 분석 -하위문화자본 개념을 중심으로-
This study explores the sneakerhead subculture through the lens of subcultural capital, primarily focusing on online community interactions. The analysis utilizes text mining techniques and netnographic research methods to examine textual data extracted from the online sneakerhead community and aims to elucidate manifestations of subcultural capital within the subculture. The findings underscore several key points: Firstly, shared experiences cultivated by the collective consciousness of subcultural capital foster solidarity among members. Secondly, ongoing validation of authenticity and comprehension of sneakers' cultural significance are member requirements. Subsequently, exhibiting greater levels of subcultural capital empowers members, resulting in hierarchical structures both within and beyond the community. Fourthly, resale-driven sneaker commercialization yields positive outcomes, including individual profit and cultural expansion, yet also brings negative consequences, such as market distortion and intra-community conflict. Lastly, the online community fills a pivotal role in dictating subcultural trends, effectively functioning as an institutional network. Given sneakers' enduring status as a fashion phenomenon, further examination of in this realm is warranted.
Key Words
Sneakerhead, Online community, Netnography, Text mining, Subcultural capital, 스니커헤드, 온라인 커뮤니티, 네트노그라피, 텍스트 마이닝, 하위문화자본
Denim Brand Development Based on Dongdaemun Fashion Cluster 동대문 패션클러스터를 기반으로 한 데님 브랜드 개발
This study participated in educational programs for young designers and received trainings in sewing technology through government and local government-supported projects led by a from a skilled craftsman. These initiatives aim to revitalize the Dongdaemun fashion cluster, which is currently experiencing stagnation. Our goal is to develop denim brands that reflect the unique regional characteristics stemming from the skilled sewing techniques and denim processes of the Changsin·Sungin regions, the production hubs supporting Dongdaemun, to discover solutions for revitalizing the local industry. For the research method, we collected data by actively participating in support projects related to the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. Additionally, we gathered data by conducting a theoretical review of the sewing industry in the Changsin·Sungin regions and the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. The research results include developing a denim brand collection―eight denim products―based on Changsin-dong's unique denim sewing technology and various denim washing processes acquired through the support project and regional characteristics. Overall, this study is meaningful in presenting a sustainable plan to revitalize the domestic sewing and manufacturing industry, focusing on the Dongdaemun fashion cluster. We achieved this by developing a denim brand that leverages the sewing and washing process technology and the unique regional characteristics of Changsin-dong.
Key Words
Dongdaemun fashion cluster, Changsin·Sungin sewing industries, Denim brand development, Local industry revitalization solutions, 동대문 패션클러스터, 창신·숭인 봉제 산업, 데님 브랜드 개발, 지역 산업 활성화 방안